From Frizz to Fabulous: How to Nourish Dry Curly Hair
Why curly hair is so dry and what you can do about it:
Curly hair can be a special kind of challenge. Even as a professional hair stylist, I struggled for years to find the right routine that would keep my curls hydrated and well-defined. Over the years, I've tried what seemed like hundreds of products and eventually, I found a routine that worked for me. That doesn't mean I've discovered the perfect products and never stray from them. I'm always tweaking my routine to adapt to changing seasons, the length (and therefore age) of my hair, and even where I am in my hair colour cycle.
For instance, you've probably noticed that your hair feels drier after swimming or spending a lot of time in the sun. And if you colour your hair, you might notice how great it feels when it’s freshly coloured compared to how dry it gets when it's time for a touch-up. You may not have heard this before, but when you have curly hair, you need to pay close attention to your hair’s moisture level throughout the month and adjust which products you're using as needed.
Here is the main thing you need to understand to gain control of your curls. Because of its unique structure, curly hair tends to be drier than straight hair. In other words, the main goal in the game of curly hair is to keep your hair hydrated. The good news is that once you understand that, you will learn to read your hair’s moisture level and intuitively adjust your products accordingly. And then, voila! Fabulous curls will become your new normal!
Here are some reasons why curly hair tends to be dry and some practical things you can do about it.
Sebum Distribution: Sebum, the natural oil produced by the scalp, has a harder time traveling down the twists and turns of curly hair shafts compared to straight hair. As a result, the natural oils produced by the scalp don't spread as evenly along the length of curly hair, which can lead to dryness.
Cuticle Shape: Curly hair cuticles (the outer layer of hair) are usually more raised and uneven. This makes it harder for the natural oils to travel along the hair shaft, and can leave curls feeling dry and frizzy.
Porosity: Curly hair tends to be more porous, meaning it can easily absorb moisture from the air and also loses moisture quickly. This constant cycle of absorbing and losing moisture can make curls feel perpetually dry. So it is essential to use products that will not only add moisture but also help to retain it.
External Factors: Curly hair is more prone to damage from external factors such as heat styling, chemical treatments, environmental factors like sun and wind exposure, and harsh haircare products. These factors can strip the hair of its natural moisture, making it even drier.
Moisture Needs: Curls need moisture to stay defined and bouncy. If curly hair isn't getting enough hydration, it can become dry, brittle, and prone to breakage.
So what’s a curly-haired girl to do?
To keep curly hair hydrated, it's important to use moisturizing products, like sulfate-free shampoos, conditioners, and leave-in treatments. Regular deep conditioning and oil treatments can help maintain moisture levels. Also, minimizing heat styling and avoiding harsh chemicals can help retain moisture and improve the overall health of curly hair. As with most thing in life, consistency is key.
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Recommended Products:
Shampoos and Conditioners: Use a sulphate free shampoo, such as Amika Normcare Shampoo and Conditioner. If your hair is damaged, Redken Acidic Bonding Curls Shampoo and Conditioner would be a great choice. You should wash your hair as often as needed in order to keep your scalp clean. For some, that means washing your hair every day or two while others are able to go 5 days or more between washes.
Lamellar Water: This is fairly new technology and it really is amazing. Lamellar water has a very small molecular structure which allows it to penetrate into the hair shaft and fill in damaged areas to improve the condition of your hair and prevent colour fade. It’s used after shampooing and before conditioning. If your hair is fine, you might even find that you’re able to use it instead of a traditional conditioner. My favourite is Matrix High Amplify Shine Rinse Lamellar Treatment.
Leave-In Conditioner: A leave-in conditioner is used after your conditioner. That’s right…you condition your hair after you condition your hair because it helps to lock in moisture. Right now I’m loving Verb Leave-In Mist. This product has a very light feel to it and would be a great choice for for any hair texture. If you have a lot of damage, another nice leave-in is Redken Anti-Breakage Leave-In Treatment which will deposit proteins into your hair to help repair broken bonds.
Bond Repair: Years ago, when I was a young hairdresser the only thing to be done for damaged hair was to cut the damaged hair off. But now it’s possible to actually repair the damage! Every 2-3 weeks I like to use Redken Acidic Bonding Concentrate. This is a pre-shampoo treatment that repairs bonds. Redken says that you will see a noticeable improvement in just one use and I actually did. With consistent use, I noticed an improvement in my curl pattern too. So if your hair is damaged, give this one a try. It may be your new best friend.
Deep Conditioner: Use a deep conditioner, like Maria Nila True Soft Hair Masque , every 2-3 weeks to maintain moisture levels. It’s also a good idea to use one each time you colour your hair.
Styling Products: I’ll often blend 2 products together, usually a gel, like Ouidad Advanced Climate Control Gel with a styling cream, like AG Recoil, but you can play around with product cocktails until you find a combo you like, When I squeeze the gel into my hand I pour out approximately the same size as my ponytail. I use about 1/2 this amount of Recoil. Make sure your hair is quite wet. You should be able to hear a squishing sound when you scrunch your hair. If you can’t hear a squish your hair is too dry and your styling products will not disperse evenly.
If you prefer a mousse, Matrix Setter Mousse is one of my favourites. It’s a really nice light and non-crunchy option.
Drying with a Diffuser: If you’re using a diffuser attachment, aim to dry your hair to approximately 80% . I love my Shark Flex Style Dryer. To avoid heating your hair too much, always keep your dryer on a very low heat setting, and use the cool-shot button frequently throughout throughout blow-dry.
Heat Protectant: If you have a few strands that you feel need a little help with an iron (try not to make this a habit) you should always use a heat protectant. I personally like Chi 44 Iron Guard.
Hair Oil: Once your hair is dry spread a few drops of oil on your hands then distribute it to your mid-shafts and ends. My favourite oil is Olaplex No. 7 Bonding Oil. It’s a pretty small bottle but you only use a tiny little bit so it will last a very long time.
Hair Spray: And that’s it! Maybe a bit of hairspray. This is one of my favourites, made by Biologe.
I hope you find these tips helpful. Please let me know if you do.